Columbus Ledger-Enquirer (GA)
February 24, 2008 Section: SPORTS Edition: LEDGER-ENQUIRER Page: C11
TOP OF HIS GAME
DURRANCE MASTERS COOKING WILD GAME
BRYAN BRASHER, Special to the Ledger-Enquirer
Dennis Durrance doesn't know exactly how many wild-game cooking competitions he's won during the past decade. All he knows for certain is that other teams have stopped showing up when they know he's going to be there. With Durrance in the mix, they know they're cooking for second place. "I started feeling bad about it after a while" said Durrance, owner of Phil's B-B-Q in Eufaula, Ala. "When the Alabama Wildlife Federation holds a wild game cook-off, it's for charity. I win a lot, and that discourages other people from competing. "So here lately, I've just been going and hanging out --- not cooking." Thankfully, he hasn't stopped cooking all together.
Durrance, whose mother, Myra, is a professional chef, is still regarded as one of the best wild game chefs in the state of Alabama. In his backyard, he's constructed an outdoor cooking area where he can listen to bluegrass music, watch Alabama football on the big screen and turn yesterday's harvest into today's culinary masterpiece.
His specialties include wild turkey and venison enchiladas with his own homemade enchilada sauce. He also cooks a dish called the "Bugger Bottom pinwheel" that's much more succulent than the name would suggest. "For that one I use wild hog loin, wild turkey and smoked deer sausage," Durrance said. "You smoke it slowly at 275 degrees for two-three hours, and you won't believe how good it is." Larry Colombo is one of 's good friends and regular patron of Phil's B-B-Q. Colombo, who is himself quite the wild-game chef, has finished second to Durrance more times than he cares to admit. After sampling some of Durrance's dishes Thursday, he understands why. "If that's what I'm finishing second to, I don't feel so bad," Colombo said. "Dennis can just absolutely cook anything." For those of you who still can't stand the thought of eating wild game, don't be concerned. You won't find any wild game dishes on the menu at Phil's B-B-Q.
Durrance's specialty dishes at Phil's are his ribs and his Brunswick stew. The restaurant's motto is "Best Butts in Alabama," which means farm-raised pork. But if you get word that Durrance is scheduled to compete in a nearby wild-game cook-off, you should try to be there. Eating his dishes might change your opinion of wild game forever.
"I'm certainly not done with the cook-offs," Durrance said. "I enjoy it too much to quit all together --- and you never know when somebody might show up who knows a little more than you do. "That would be fine with me. I love cooking --- and I love the competition." Phil's B-B-Q is located at 534 South Randolph Ave. in Eufaula, Ala. You can reach Dennis and his staff at 334-687-3337.
Illustration:Photo: Robin Trimarchi, Ledger-Enquirer